Mera, Island, and Khumbu Circuit

Day 22: Island High Camp-Island Peak Summit (6189m)-Island BC

	Map 5b: Day 21 - Day 24
	Day 22: Island Peak glacier Unfortunately today the wind was even stronger then yesterday. We set off from high camp at 2:30am and Assim and I reached the crampons changing area at 4:45am. We waited there till 6:15am hoping that the strong wind would subside after sunrise. Seen here were the British group moving on at around 6:10am.
	Day 22: Sunrise at Island Peak Looking up north at the Island Peak glacier.
	Day 22: Ama Dablam Looking towards the south west at Ama Dablam.
	Day 22: Crossing the bridge The crampon changing area was at the top of a rocky ridge, with a narrow snow bridge to the north linking to the Island peak glacier. Here a group of climbers were crossing the bridge.
	Day 22: Sunrise at Island Peak Another view of the sunrise.
	Day 22: The ice wall We moved off from the crampons changing area at about 6:30am. The Island Peak ice wall seen from the snow field below. The wall was about 100m high and 45-50 degree slope, and requires technical climbing to go up. Once up, we then followed the snow ridge to the summit. The large crevasse that had stopped many from reaching the summit in year 2000 had been bridged with snow, and was visible in the picture.
	Day 22: Island Peak summit (6189m) The ice wall was only technical and not difficult, but the high wind was the real killer. The wind was about 50-70kph and sweeping up the snow at the ridge almost constantly, happily blasting us away. What made it worst was Susan, who was supposed to be on the second slower rope, was with us and we had to wait for her in the wind. We finally reached the summit at 10:33am.
	Day 22: Island Peak summit Behind us was the massive south face of Lhotse.
	Day 22: A Japanese The camera of this gentleman from Japan had malfunction, and seeked my help for a summit shot.
	Day 22: Lhotse and I At the background were Lhotse (left) and Lhotse Shar (center).
	Day 22: Makalu (8463m) and I The brown mountain on my right was Makalu, the world's 5th highest mountain.
	Day 22: Assim and I At the back was Ama Dablam (6856m).
	Day 22: Assim and I Another one.
	Day 22: Snow ridge of Island Peak The Japanese making his way down the snow ridge. The ice wall we came up was on the left.
	Day 22: Col linking Island Peak and Lhotse Island Peak is actually an extension from the Lhotse massive and this is where they were connected. We left the summit at about 11:45am and went back to camp at base camp.

 

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Copyright © David Wong. All rights reserved. No part of this publication can be reproduced without prior permission from the author. To email me, remove the "_spamaway" from the following address: kalohimal_spamaway@yahoo.com.sg